The Herbs

This weekend, I finally got my herb garden up and running! I procrastinated over the past couple weeks to start it, because I felt that I had not yet done enough research to be successful. Heaven forbid my precious herbs die! In many aspects of my life, I delay embarking on new projects unless I know and understand every little detail about what I am doing. (I am working on jumping in and learning as I go.) Thankfully, I came home this past Tuesday, and my dad had bought the plants, soil, containers, everything for a wee starter herb garden. I am thankful for the push into the deep end, because once everything was in the dirt, it all seemed far less daunting.

We replaced our old, water-damaged window shelf with this new one that we made out of a thick piece of plywood. We cut rectangles the size of our containers (power tools!), so they are sunken, making the arrangement more aesthetically pleasing from inside our kitchen window. I cannot wait for the basil and dill to grow tall and bushy. It will be insanely beautiful to look upon every morning as I make my coffee. The curved section on the far end of this picture is for additional containers. Currently, we have our jalapeno and bell peppers in the large circular container, but I'd like to start garlic and more green onions in smaller containers around it. So many possibilities!

Because my dad chose which herbs we are beginning with, it gave me a more focused starting point for research on the best way to care for each type of herb. I had spent weeks trying to decide on the best combination of herbs to grow and doing schizophrenic research on dozens of different herbs. Again, thanks for the push, pops. Over-thinking kills productivity. Just jump in, right?

After the jump is the summary of my research, the basics for growing sweet basil, bell and jalapeno peppers, dill, cilantro, and green onions. Here goes nothin'. 

Growing Basics

SWEET BASIL (ocimum basilicum)

Sun: Although basil likes as much sun as possible, it will be okay with at least four hours of full sun.

Watering: Avoid over-watering, as basil does not grow well when sitting in water. At the same time, it does not thrive in parched soil either. A well draining soil is crucial. When growing in containers, the soil dries out more quickly, so more frequent waterings will be necessary. Allow soil to dry completely between waterings, then soak thoroughly. Yellowing is a sign of over-watering, while wilting is a sign of under-watering. Aim for the base of the plant when watering, avoiding the leaves.

Location: Protect basil from wind and cold. Basil likes warmer temperatures, over 50 degrees F. If there is any hint of frost coming, protect plants with a loose covering of blankets or sheets.

Fertilizing: Do not fertilize unnecessarily. If the leaves are pale green, this means the plant is not receiving enough nutrients. If this happens, feed the plant once a month. (NOTE: Discoloration could be the result of overwatering. Check soil daily to eliminate this possibility before fertilizing).

Pests: Aphids are common pests for basil. If the plant looks wilted even though it is watered sufficiently and if there are white specs around the base of the plant and under the leaves, you may have aphids. Spraying a mixture of vegetable oil, dish soap, and water will take care of aphids.

Pruning: Basil leaves grow in twos, one on each side of the stem. Once the basil plant has grown 4 pairs of leaves, prune above the second pair. The basil plant will feel threatened, and it will go into overdrive to produce more stems. From the cutting, two new stems will appear, and on each new stem, pairs of leaves will grow. This results in a fuller, more balanced plant that produces a larger harvest. To promote flavor, trim back about once a week, as the more the plant is harvested, the better the flavor.

Blossoms: Though blossoms are pretty, they cause the plant to stop producing leaves (called bolting). Be sure to pinch the whole stem that produces the flower, rather than pinching off the blossom itself, to promote growth and prevent bitter-tasting basil.

Harvesting: The most flavorful leaves are from the younger stems, so harvesting from the top of the plant is ideal. Additionally, leaving the large, sturdy leaves on the bottom of the plants intact gives the plant a more sturdy base and allows the plant to absorb more light and produce more energy.

BELL & JALAPENO PEPPERS (capsicum annumm)  


Sun: Peppers are native to Central and South America, so they need plenty of warmth and sun to thrive. The hotter the weather, the more flavorful the pepper. Maturing plants need at least 8-10 hours of sunlight per day. Locations receiving full sun in the morning seem to work well, as temperatures over 90 degrees F can be damaging. Temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees F are ideal.

Watering: Water is as important to a pepper as sun, so water once a day so that the plant is getting at least 1 inch of water a week. Water deeply during hot or dry spells to encourage deep root growth. As with basil, avoid getting water on fruit and leaves, aiming for the base instead. Evenly moist soil is essential, and lack of water can produce bitter-tasting peppers.

Fertilizer: Peppers are heavy feeders. From the start, select good potting soil and all purpose fertilizer. When fruit begins to set, fertilize again with nitrogen fertilizer.

Pests: Aphids can be a problem with peppers. A soapy mixture, like that used for basil, can take care of this problem.

Staking: Once peppers begin to produce fruit, the stems can be damaged easily by the weight. To support the plant, tie the plants to stakes using old nylons. Nylons have some stretch, so the stems will still be able to thicken and grow. Wire or twine will gradually choke and snap the stem. To prevent damaging roots, install stakes prior to transplantation.

Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate): The magnesium in epsom salts is instrumental in helping plants absorb nutrients like potassium and nitrogen. Both minerals help the plant produce chlorophyll and add to the health and productivity of the peppers. Without adequate magnesium, plants will produce beautiful leaves but will not produce peppers. Spraying the plant with diluted epsom salts will result in a more fruitful harvest of larger and thicker-walled peppers. Mix 2 tbsp of epsom salt and water in a spray bottle, shaking vigorously to combine. Apply to plant every 2 weeks with a thorough soaking.

Harvesting: It can take quite a while to see fruit, and even longer for fruit to mature to a red color. To increase productivity, pick peppers during the green stage, forcing more blossoms and more peppers. Pinch peppers from the stem when picking. Peppers should be firm and solid colored. If harvested too early, though, peppers will lack flavor, so finding a nice balance between picking at too immature a stage and waiting too long for the plant to mature is ideal for the home grower.

CILANTRO (coriandrum sativum)

Sun: Cilantro is a cool-weather herb. It can tolerate some shade, and typically frosts do not bother it. In fact, cilantro grows best in cooler weather, as the plant begins to bolt and flower when temperatures rise. Ensuring the plant is in shade during the hot, afternoon sun will produce best results.

Watering: Allow soil to go almost dry between waterings, then moisten on a regular basis.

Soil: Cilantro prefers deep, fertile soil that is well draining, because cilantro has deep roots.

Maximizing yields: Cilantro requires basic yet consistent care to thrive. Keep soil cool (below 75 degrees). Early morning or late afternoon light is ideal. Also, trim often so the plant continually produces more leaves. Trim flower heads before they bloom.

Harvesting: To help cilantro produce more, harvest about a third of the leaves at any given time, leaving the inside, smaller greens to grow. A good time to harvest cilantro is when the stems reach 3-4 inches. Stems should regrow in about a week.

Reseeding: Cilantro is a short-lived plant. Expect it to live only a few months before it flowers. If you want a steady supply of cilantro, sow seeds every few weeks to keep a fresh supply of young plants.

DILL (anethum graveolens) 

Sun: Dill likes a good amount of light, about 6 hours of bright sun per day. Ideal temperature for dill is between 60 and 75 degrees F. Dill will tolerate some shade, but it will not grow as bushy.

Watering: Make sure dill has a regular source of water. You want the soil to be moist but not soaked. Typically, if soil is dry 1 to 2 knuckles deep, it is time to water. As such, a drip line works better than overhead watering. Watering in early morning or early evening will produce best results. Yellowing leaves, beginning at the base of the plant and moving upwards, indicates over-watering.

Soil: Because dill has a long tap root, well draining, loose soil is ideal.

Harvesting: Regular harvesting will encourage growth, as with other herbs. Clip the top 2 to 3 inches of leaves. If flowers form, pinch off to prolong leaf growth.

GREEN ONIONS (allium fistulosum)

From clippings: Green onions can be regrown from cuttings very easily. Simply cut off an inch or two from the roots (the white end) and plant. Re-growing green onions is immensely rewarding, because you will see obvious growth in just a couple days.

Sun: Though green onions benefit from full sun, they will grow even in shady or indoor light conditions. Full sun for 3 to 4 hours, with shade for the rest of the day, is ideal.

Watering: Green onions need about an inch of water per week. Soil should be moist but not soggy to prevent root rot.

Harvesting: Simply snip off the top few inches of your green onions. More green onions will continue to grow from the stalk.